Planning a trip to Paris is thrilling and more than a little intimidating. I went back in late 2025 for the first time in over 30 years, and even with a prior visit under my belt, there is just too much to take in. Here is what I figured out from research and past visits, plus a few things I learned the hard way once I got there.

Do you need to learn French? (No, but bonjour is essential.) Will you look ridiculous if you order a cappuccino after breakfast? (Yes, but only to the waiter.) Between museums, Metro maps, and croissants the size of your head, it is easy to feel overwhelmed before you even pack your bags. This guide breaks down the basics: when to go, what to see, where to stay, and how not to tip the taxi driver your entire vacation budget.

When to Go

Paris is one of those cities that is worth visiting year-round, but the vibe changes with the season.

• Spring (March–May): Cherry blossoms in front of Notre Dame and picnics in the Luxembourg Gardens. It is gorgeous, but expect crowds once the weather warms up.
• Summer (June–August): Long, sunny evenings along the Seine and café terraces buzzing late into the night. The downside is that prices and tourists both skyrocket. Also, Parisians escape the city in August, so some shops and restaurants may be closed.
• Fall (September–November): My personal pick, and I just confirmed it. Crisp weather, fewer crowds than summer, autumn colors in the parks, and plenty of festivals. September was lovely. If your dates are flexible, this is where I would point you.
• Winter (December–February): Cozy cafés, twinkling holiday lights, and museum days without elbowing your way through a crowd. It is cold, yes, but you will have shorter lines and better hotel rates.

If your dates are flexible, check whether there are special exhibits, fashion weeks, or major events you would love to see (or avoid like the plague).

What to See

Here is the thing about the Louvre: nobody has ever seen all of it. Not even the staff. Not even Tom Hanks, who seems like a nice guy. Do not try. Pick the wing you actually care about, see it well, and leave the rest for a future life.

That is my whole philosophy for Paris, really. Pick a couple of big sights each day and leave room for café breaks and getting delightfully lost. That is often when the best Paris moments happen. Here are the ones I would put at the top of a first-timer's list, with an honest note on each:

• The Louvre. You will not see all of it, so do not try. I saw the Mona Lisa from a distance (the line to get close is exactly as long as you fear), caught the Winged Victory on the way, and then spent my real time in the Napoleon III Apartments, which were gorgeous and nearly empty. Go late afternoon on a Wednesday or Friday when it stays open until 9 p.m.
• Musée d'Orsay. My favorite museum in Paris, which is not particularly original of me. The Impressionists are all here (Monet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh), the building is a converted train station, and the rooftop terrace with a glass of champagne and a view of the Seine was a genuine pinch-me moment.
• Sainte-Chapelle. The stained glass actually made me gasp out loud when I walked in. It was built in 1248, which raises the obvious question of how anyone managed it. Small, quick to see, and worth every minute. Check if there is a concert in Sainte-Chapelle while you are there. This is on my “next visit” list.
• Opéra Garnier. One of the highlights of my whole trip. Jaw-dropping in a way photos undersell. Go even if opera is not your thing, you are there for the building.
• Sacré-Cœur and Montmartre. Touristy, yes. Go in knowing that and enjoy it anyway. The view from the front steps at sunset earns the climb, and the neighborhood below is charming as anything.
• The Eiffel Tower. I skipped going up. I would rather have the tower in my photos than be inside it looking out. I sat on the Champ de Mars lawn instead, watched vendors sell champagne, and listened to cheers go up every time someone got engaged. This was the perfect last night in Paris for me.

Build the rest of your list from there. Note the ones that pull at you, then read up on each to see if it is worth your time and money. Good travel blogs are my favorite resource for this, real information from a real person's point of view, and YouTube videos are great for getting a feel of a place before you commit. If you want the full day-by-day version with everything above in order, I mapped it out in my 5-day Paris itinerary for women over 50.

Where to Stay

Once you have your must-sees sorted, you can start on lodging. I like to plot the places I am going on a map so I can see whether most of them cluster in the same area, then start my hotel search around there. You can use Google's “My Maps” to build your own planning map.

Here is the map I built to plan my trip. After pinning my must-sees, it was clear that staying near a central Metro stop, somewhere around the Palais Garnier or Place de la Concorde, would make the most sense. (To see the names of the pinned sites, click the box in the map's upper left corner, then click a name in the list to get more info and the website for the place. Pretty handy.)

Here is where I will save you some hours. I do not book big chain hotels in Paris. I want a small, independent place, walkable to a Metro line, with a little character. That is my only real non-negotiable. After far too many hours comparing reviews (and a croissant or two for fortitude), I booked Hôtel des Comédies in the 10th arrondissement, and it turned out to be exactly what I wanted.

It is an independent 3-star boutique, about €220 a night when I went, a two-minute walk to the Bonne Nouvelle Metro, and surrounded by local cafés rather than souvenir stalls. The building is historic and shows a little wear (the carpets are not winning awards), but the rooms are updated, there is air conditioning and an elevator (not a given in Paris), and the front desk was kind every single time. The neighborhood feels like Parisians actually live there: people in stylish trench coats, dogs of every size, friends kissing on both cheeks. It felt like a movie set, and I would stay again without hesitating. I wrote up the full review here, with a video tour.

If you want to run your own search, a site like Booking.com is a fine starting point. Enter where and when, then add filters for the neighborhood, price range, and everything else you want. Just do yourself a favor and check the walking distance to the nearest Metro before you fall in love with a listing. Staying near a station is the single thing I would not compromise on.

Emergency and Medical

Hopefully this section stays firmly in the “good to know, never need” category, like how to change a tire or assemble Ikea furniture.

• Emergency number in France: Dial 112 for medical, fire, or police.
• Hospitals vs clinics: Head to a hospital for serious issues (chest pain, broken bones). For smaller problems like fevers or infections, look for an urgent care clinic (centre médical).
• Language help: Many doctors speak English, but keep Google Translate on your phone. It works offline and can translate photos of signs or prescriptions.
• Insurance: Check your health plan before you go. Some credit cards (like my Chase card) include international medical and travel coverage with a 24-hour emergency line, so read that fine print. If yours does not, buy short-term travel medical insurance for peace of mind. I use Safety Wing Travel Insurance.
• Embassy resources: The U.S. Embassy in Paris has English-speaking doctors, notaries, and help with things like passports or legal issues. Bookmark their site before you travel.

Keep a small “just in case” card in your wallet with your emergency contacts, insurance info, and hotel address in French. It is one of those things you will probably never use, but if you need it, you'll be glad it's there. Hopefully the most medical decision you face in Paris is choosing between the chocolate éclair and the almond croissant.

Transportation

Before you even get to the Metro, there is the small matter of getting across the Atlantic. When I priced my flights, French Bee (discount French airline) out of SFO to Orly beat the LAX and San Jose options every time I checked. Worth a look if you are anywhere near the Bay Area and watching your budget.

Once you land, getting around Paris is easier than it looks, once you make peace with the Metro map spaghetti.

• Metro & Buses: Paris has finally caught up: you can now pay for rides with your phone (Android 8+ or iPhone XS or newer). Download an official app like Île-de-France Mobilités or Bonjour RATP, load your ticket, and tap your phone at the gate like a local. That said, I still recommend grabbing a cheap Navigo Easy card at a station machine as backup. Apps can glitch, and the last place you want tech trouble is when you are juggling a croissant and trying to catch a train.
• Airport Transfers: 
  • From CDG (Charles de Gaulle), you can take the RER B train straight into the city. If you would rather not wrestle luggage on a train, official taxis have flat rates (around €55–€62) depending on your destination.
  • From Orly Airport, the easiest option now is Metro Line 14, which was extended to Orly and replaced the old OrlyBus service. It runs directly into central Paris in about 25 minutes, smooth and no-fuss. Official taxis from Orly have flat rates of about €36–€45 depending on which side of the Seine you are headed. As with CDG, skip the unlicensed cabs.
• Walking: Paris was made for walking, just bring shoes that can handle cobblestones. Your feet will thank you, even if your fashion sense sulks a little. The best discoveries usually happen when you wander off your planned route.
• Taxis & Rideshares: Uber works in Paris, but it is not always cheaper or faster than the Metro. Use it late at night when trains run less frequently.
• Day Trips: Trains from Gare du Nord and Gare de Lyon make places like Versailles, Giverny, and Reims (hello, Champagne) easy side trips.

Money

Cash (Euros):
Skip the airport exchange counters, they are a rip-off. Use an ATM once you arrive in Paris to get euros at the best rate. Most places take cards, but it is smart to carry a little cash for markets, small cafés, or that one boulangerie with the world's best croissant and a handwritten “cash only” sign.

Credit Cards:
Visa and Mastercard are widely accepted. Make sure your card has chip-and-PIN or contactless (tap) capability. American Express is hit-or-miss outside big hotels and restaurants. If you have a travel rewards card (like my Chase Sapphire), bring it. The no foreign transaction fees are a lifesaver.

Tipping:
Relax, this is the easy part. You do not tip the way you do in the U.S. Service is already included in restaurant bills (service compris). If you had a great experience, leaving a little extra change or rounding up a euro or two is appreciated but not expected. For taxis, just round up to the nearest euro. For airport transfers or private guides, €5–€10 is a nice gesture if the service was especially good.

Practical Paris Tips for First-Time Visitors

Paris is wonderful, but it also has its quirks. A few things that will make your first visit smoother and a lot more fun:

• Learn the basics. A simple bonjour, merci, and s'il vous plaît go a long way. Even if your French ends there, locals appreciate the effort. Unlike in the U.S., you are expected to say bonjour when you enter a shop or restaurant. Skip it and you will get side-eye that could cut through a baguette.
• Café etiquette. In many cafés you seat yourself, and if you order just a coffee, no one will rush you. Parisians are professionals at lingering. Pay at the counter if the waiter does not bring you the bill.
• Pickpocket prevention. The biggest safety issue here is not violent crime, it is sneaky hands on the Metro or near tourist sights. Keep your bag zipped and close, do not carry all your cash in one place, and do not leave your phone on the table while you are dining.
• Train your legs before you go. Paris is a walking city, and cobblestones, Metro stairs, and 20,000-step days add up fast. I wish I had done more walking at home before the trip. I spend my first 2 evenings taking Advil and soaking in the bathtub! Start a daily walking routine in the weeks leading up to your visit and thank yourself later.
• Dining solo. You will not feel out of place eating alone. Paris cafés are made for people-watching. Bring a book or journal, and voilà, you are not alone, you are an author working on your manuscript.
• Bathrooms. Not every café lets you use theirs unless you buy something. Keep coins handy for public restrooms. Or perfect the art of the “I swear I am buying something after I use the bathroom” face. And say bonjour first!
• Sunday closures. Some shops shut down on Sundays, but museums, big attractions, and many restaurants stay open. Plan ahead if you want to do boutique browsing.
• Monday and Tuesday closures. Check the days museums are open. Many are closed on Monday or Tuesday, and finding out at the door is a special kind of heartbreak.
• Apps to download. Google Translate (download French offline), Citymapper for Metro routes, and the SNCF app for train tickets. I also love Rome2Rio for figuring out the best way to get between two places.

Paris does not have to be complicated. A little planning goes a long way: figure out your must-sees, pick a Metro card (or let your phone do the tapping), and practice your best café linger.

The rest will just happen. The best Paris moments usually are not on the itinerary anyway. They are the unexpected ones, like stumbling into a jazz trio on the Seine or finding the perfect chocolate éclair when you were just looking for the bathroom. Pack your curiosity (and maybe some stretchy pants), and let Paris do the rest.

P.S. I wrote up 10 things I learned on this trip and what I would do differently next time. When you are in the planning stages, that post is worth a read before you pack.

Paris Essentials – Quick Checklist

Apps to Download

• Google Translate (download French offline)
• Citymapper or Bonjour RATP (for Metro & buses)
• SNCF Connect (for trains & day trips)

Getting Around

• Navigo Easy card or load tickets onto your phone (Android 8+ or iPhone XS or newer)
• Always stay near a Metro station when booking hotels
• Comfortable walking shoes beat cute but painful ones (Parisian cobblestones do not care about your Instagram)

Money

• Use ATMs for euros (avoid exchange counters)
• Visa & Mastercard are widely accepted (make sure your card does not charge a foreign transaction fee)
• Tipping: service is included (service compris), rounding up a euro or two is just a nice extra

Emergency Info

• Dial 112 for medical, fire, or police
• U.S. Embassy in Paris: fr.usembassy.gov
• Keep insurance & hotel info in your wallet (and phone)

Must-Know Etiquette

• Say bonjour when entering shops and cafés
• Do not expect coffee refills, order another if you want one
• Linger in cafés, it is encouraged

Keep Planning Your Paris Trip

Once you have the basics down, these two are the natural next steps:

• My 5-Day Paris Itinerary for Women Over 50 – every sight above, in order, day by day, with what to know before you go.
• My Hôtel des Comédies Review – the boutique hotel I stayed at and would book again, with a full video tour.

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